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The last rays of fading daylight fall on vineyards planted on a thin, sandy
strip of land a few hundred feet from the Long Island Sound and the Peconic Bay.
The briny, salty ocean breezes blow gently across the land. The shrill song of
crickets and cicadas is interrupted by a dog howling in the distance. It's like
a pastoral scene from another era, when time was told only by the passing seasons
and the daily transit of the sun and moon. This rural, spirit-infused place remains
much as it was when it was celebrated in the poems
of one of its native sons, Walt Whitman.
Long Island may be New York's youngest wine region, but like a precocious
child, it has quickly overtaken the state's older wine regions both in terms
of the quality and craftsmanship of its wines. Like other wine regions across
New York, Long Island's soils were created by the retreating glaciers at the
end of the last ice age.
This tranquil land, a mosaic of vineyards, wetlands, open pasture and forest,
exists only 85 miles from New York City. The Long Island appellation consists
of two distinct American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), the Hamptons and the North
Fork. The Hamptons appellation has two wineries, while the North Fork has 21
wineries with over 2,000 acres planted to many of the classical grape varieties,
such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
and Riesling.
The North Fork of Long Island is surrounded by water, with the Long Island
Sound on the north, Peconic Bay on the south, and the Atlantic Ocean on the east.
Ocean breezes moderate heat and cold reducing daily temperature swings. This
protects vines from damaging frosts and premature bud-break in the spring. The
growing season is generally about three weeks longer than other wine regions
in New York. The classic Bordeaux red varieties thrive here in a maritime climate
not unlike that of the Medoc in France. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet
Franc can ripen fully. They thrive on the deep, sandy loam soils. The region's
first commercial vineyard, Hargrave, was established in 1973 by Alex and Louisa
Hargrave, who planted the vineyard on a former potato field. Over the quarter
century since, dozens of vintners following their lead have planted vineyards
and created wines that are constantly garnering international acclaim.
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